Understanding AHAs

By: Olivia Young
Created on 09th November 2009

AHAs are the wonder ingredients in most skincare and beauty products but what exactly are they? And why are clinician-dispensed products a better bet than over-the-counter products?

AHAs or Alpha-Hydroxy Acids are not new to skincare. Legends of Cleopatra's milk baths are well known and Polynesians have long used sugarcane and fruit juices to soften their skin. As scientists later discovered these natural products all contain AHAs and currently the AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products, such as glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (sour milk) and citric acid (citrus fruits).

In the 1980s companies began to research how it was possible to harness these AHAs into cosmetic applications. Pioneers in the cosmetic use of AHAs include US company Dermatologic Cosmetic Laboratories who in 1988 started to produce an extensive selection of AHA formulations including creams, lotions and gels to take advantage of the amazing benefits of these compounds.

The list of benefits of AHAs is long; they are supposed to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, improve skin texture and tone, unblock pores, improve oily skin or acne, and even boost collagen production.

How AHAs works?
Cells in the outer layers of skin are bound together by inter-cellular fluid. As one ages, this ‘glue-like' substance binds the skin cells tighter and denser. Dead skin layers build up and unlike younger skin, natural exfoliation becomes difficult. The AHA group of natural acids has the ability to loosen this inter-cellular fluid and allows the top layer of dead skin to slough off easily. Thus AHA products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin.

The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most skincare cosmetics sold to consumers contain AHAs at levels up to 10 per cent.

Over the counter versus in the clinic
AHAs are present in many of the skincare products you can buy over the counter but there is an argument to suggest that it is better to see either a dermatologist or cosmetic doctor because they have access to brands that often it is not possible to buy at your local department store.

Also over-the-counter skincare brands might have AHAs in them but the percentage is so low it's almost negligible and therefore less likely to make a difference.

Therefore it is far better to go to a skincare professional who can recommend cosmeceutical strength products to ensure you have the correct product and that you use the product correctly for maximum benefits.

If you have always suffered from bad skin then it can have a devastating effect on your confidence and it is crucial to see a practitioner so they can properly evaluate your skin and prescribe the best skincare regime for you. It is also important to take on board that just one treatment will not be enough to have the desired effect so it is important to be prescribed a detailed treatment plan.

Linda Wormald, brand manager of DCL in the UK which produce AHA-based skincare products that are distributed to clinics, believes strongly that their products are head and shoulders above over-the-counter products: "Often the beauty consultants on the counters don't properly understand the products they are promoting. The only way through the dermis level of the skin is by injection so creams that promise to penetrate the skin are giving false promise. AHAs work in a different way. They are not penetrating skin - they are helping the natural process of cell renewal.

"The public probably don't understand the treatments you can get from a department store are not as effective as the ones that can be provided through a clinic - they usually only have half the strength."

FACTS ABOUT AHAS

• AHAs exfoliate the skin by removing the upper dead cell layer
• Higher strength AHAs can cause burns if your skin is sensitive. Begin with a lower strength and then begin using higher strengths
• Glycolic acid is the most common AHA used in skin treatments
• AHA combinations can help erase fine lines and some discoloration and also treat blackheads
• You should always use sunscreens while using AHAs. Skin becomes sensitive with exfoliation done by AHAs
• AHAs are also known as fruit acids

RECOGNISING AHAS

AHAs are now routinely added to many of our beauty and skincare products so it is important to recognise common AHAs.

Glycolic Acid: This is one of the most commonly used AHAs in skincare. Derived from sugarcane juice it is has a very low molecular size which allows it to penetrate the skin faster. The dead skin cells are removed by the glycolic acid loosening the glue that sticks the dead cells to the skin.

Glycolic acid also smoothes fine wrinkles, treats blackheads, stimulates collagen production and prevents drying of the skin. It also aids other skincare ingredients to reach deeper in the skin.

Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, lactic acid is a good moisturiser and exfoliator. Usually used in combination with other AHAs.

Citric Acid: From citrus fruits, citric acid accelerates collagen production and also removes spots on the skin. Not as good an exfoliator as other AHAs, it is considered a good anti-oxidant so useful for anti-ageing.

Other Acids: Malic acid and tartaric acid are other popular AHAs and are usually used in combination with other AHAs.

CS&AM