Do we really need moisturisers?

By: Katharine Griffiths
Created on 12th January 2010

We think we're doing the right thing by using moisturisers day and night but what if we are actually just contributing to the ageing process? The prescription-only Obagi skincare range could contain the products to make your skin work harder

Moisturiser is a skincare staple for most women and one of the founding products of a global cosmetics industry that is worth over £6 billion. Most of us use a facial moisturiser, but according to Dr Zein Obagi, a Beverly Hills-based dermatologist, they can make your skin "lazy" and accelerate ageing.

Obagi's products have moisturising properties, but are mixed with ultra-high levels of alphahydroxy acid, hydroquinone, tretinoin and vitamin C.

"When skin functions properly, it works from the inside out to keep its layers healthy and hydrated," says Obagi. "Putting on a moisturiser provides hydration via water to the upper layers of the dermis. Sure, it feels good and is comforting, and the skin says ‘Hey, we're fat and happy up here,' but then the dermis cells become lazy, go dormant, and skin becomes drier, thinner and less elastic, shutting off the skin's natural function to hydrate.

"Then women say to me, ‘I have sensitive skin'. The question is: why? Men and babies don't have the same issues because they don't apply moisturiser in the same liberal dosages. Putting on moisturiser is like eating dessert and skipping the meal. You've missed the part that actually does some good."

EXPERT OPINION

Dr Rita Rakus (www.drritarakus.com), known as the London Lip Queen, has had over 15 years of aesthetic experience and aims to provide the highest level of expertise in non-surgical facial rejuvenation and body treatments.

Over the years, having trained in all aspects of non-surgical facial rejuvenation, Dr Rakus has become a highly experienced practitioner in her field of cosmetic medicine and is a founder and committee member of The British Association of Cosmetic Doctors (BACD).

She explains why prescription strength products have the advantage of over-the-counter ranges: "Obagi System skin care products are prescription strength, or pharmaceutical quality, products that work at the cellular level to improve the skin cell function. As skin ages, just like the body, it loses the ability to properly renew itself. The Obagi System is a prescription strength skincare system that is physician monitored to accelerate skin cell turnover so that it looks and acts younger and healthier. 

We answer your questions on how the Obagi Nu-Derm System works...

How quickly will I see results when using the Nu-Derm System?

Your individual prescribed treatment plan will be determined by your skincare professional, but you can typically expect visible improvements in four to six weeks.

Why is the Nu-Derm System sold exclusively by physicians?

The Nu-Derm System contains prescription-strength formulations that can only be sold through a licensed physician, such as a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.

Can the Nu-Derm System be used if I will be in the sun?

Keeping in mind that extended sun exposure damages the skin, it is suggested that you avoid prolonged exposure without protection. While on the system, you can participate in normal outdoor activity, however, your skin may be sensitive. It is very important to always wear a sunscreen, like the Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35 and/or the Physical UV Block SPF 32 in the Nu-Derm System, and reapply sun protection every few hours while exposed to the sun.

Why should I use all the products in the Nu-DermSystem?

Each product in the Nu-Derm System is specifically designed to work together to provide you with the best results. When used as a system, the prescription-strength ingredients work to effectively balance the pH level of your skin and penetrate into the layers of your skin for superior results.Your skincare professional will guide you in using the system based on their assessment of your needs.

What can I expect while using the Nu-Derm System?

You will likely experience four phases of transformation.

OUT WITH THE OLD
(Weeks 1-6)
• The Nu-Derm System penetrates to the deepest layer of your skin to correct signs of premature aging and acne flares
• Old, dead skin cells are pushed to the surface and replaced with fresh cells
• Itching, dryness and redness are possible side effects as your skin adapts to the system
Expect: Pigmented skin cells to become regulated, creating a more even toned appearance

IN WITH THE NEW
(Weeks 7-12)
• Your skin begins producing normal, healthy cells
• Pigment cells are distributing melanin more evenly
• Collagen production is stimulated
• Your skin begins to acclimate to the system
Expect: Smoother, softer, clearer skin as normal healthy cell production begins

HEALTHY GLOW
(Weeks 12-18)
• Your skin cells are in the process of transformation
• Collagen production continues
• Your skin is becoming clearer, firmer and tighter with improved clarity and a healthy glow
Expect: Your skin to be smooth, naturally hydrated, evenly coloured and more resilient

THE NEW YOU
(Lasting results, with maintenance)
• Your skin has been transformed by the Nu-Derm System
• Continue to use the system daily in the morning and evening
• Check-in routinely with your skincare professional to maintain your results long term
Expect: Skin that looks and acts younger and healthier

CS&AM