Cosmic Skincare

By: Katharine Griffiths
Created on 09th June 2010

Skincare guru Tracey Beesley, who runs SkinBrands Ltd, explains the science behind cosmeceuticals

There is a new skincare trend taking the USA and now the UK by storm which promises to deliver radiant skin: the rise of the cosmeceutical.

These products are not sold through chemists or department stores but through a network of skincare professionals up and down the UK. That does not mean, however, that they are hard to get hold of. Interestingly, sales of regular cosmetics in the USA fell in 2009 - while sales of cosmeceutical brands rose by seven per cent.

What?
Cosmeceuticals play an increasingly important role in cosmetic dermatology. But what are they? Well, the difference between cosmeceuticals and more common cosmetic products is that they are more active, are readily absorbed by the skin and are clinically proven to do so.

Dr Albert Kligman was the first to realise that the skin can be impacted by substances other than those requiring prescriptions, over 20 years ago. For example, he found that substances such as petrolatum, mineral oil, vitamins and minerals can significantly alter the structure of the skin. They are not prescription products, nor are they cosmetic products, but in between, so the term ‘cosmeceutical' was born.

Why?
So what causes those dreaded lines, wrinkles, pigmentation marks and that generally ‘dull' skin that so many of us are desperate to correct?

Scientists calculate that free radicals account for approximately 90 per cent of perceived skin-ageing - including wrinkles, roughness,
mottled pigmentation and loss of elasticity.

How?
We all know the saying ‘prevention is better than cure'. An ideal starting point is an effective antioxidant containing the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C, preferably with added ingredients like phloretin, ferulic and alpha tocopherol (vitamin E).

However, not all antioxidants work effectively - they should ideally be applied in a liquid form to penetrate the skin. When applied in the correct formulations the skin's natural antioxidant levels are elevated, which helps to defend the skin from free radical attack. It is a lifestyle change. With a daily application, positive changes can be detected within three months.

An antioxidant should be combined with a broad spectrum sunscreen - look out for the ingredients Mexoryl and titanium dioxide. Unlike an antioxidant, a good sunscreen should lie on top of the skin so when the damaging UVA rays hit the skin, they are reflected away.

Like the other two products, sunscreen needs to be worn 365 days of the year, not just during the summer months.

Product ranges like SkinCeuticals, Skinmedica and Medik8 dominate in this category of skincare and all contain the four generations of cosmeceutical ingredients necessary to protect the skin against further damage and repair the damage that has already been done.

Additionally, procedures like medical microneedling combined with cosmeceutical products are taking the antiageing world by storm - Angelina Jolie is said to be a big fan. The Medik8 Titanium Dermaroller creates a multitude of tiny puncture wounds to the dermis, which induces the release of growth factors that stimulate the production of new collagen and elastin.

This procedure, having administered tiny pin-pricks into the skin, allows better absorption of products like vitamin C and retinol. It involves very little downtime and produces fantastic results in a relatively short time.

It's a skincare minefield out there - figuring out what works and what doesn't is paramount to achieving the type of skin you really want.

Cosmeceuticals: Know the score

Alpha hydroxy acids
The first generation of cosmeceuticals is alpha hydroxy acids. The most common AHAs are gycolic and mandelic acid. Mandelic acid is an appropriate treatment for a wide variety of skin concerns, from acne to wrinkles.

Growth factors
The latest development in cosmeceutical skincare is a growth factor product. Used in high concentrations, growth factors have been shown to stimulate collagen production.

Retinol
The second generation is pure vitamin A, or retinol, which is needed throughout the body for a variety of biological functions, including exfoliation, and cell regeneration. It is also helpful for acneic skin, as it regulates sebum production.

Pentapeptides
Pentapeptides are the newest group of amino acids, which renew the skin's outermost layer to reveal smoother, younger looking skin. They work by stimulating the production of collagen, which helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.