Last Word: Dr Tracy Mountford

By: Dr Tracy Mountford
Created on 13th August 2010

The new buzzword is ‘make-under’ not ‘makeover’ and Dr Tracy Mountford predicts that this trend is here to stay

When I first started in the industry 20 years ago we were just focused on filling lines. We had limited tools at our disposal - collagen was the only filler, muscle relaxants were very much in their infancy and lasers were not in widespread use. However, expectation was much lower and we were able to deliver what was wanted by our patients. New fillers then came along, muscle relaxants became better established and laser treatments became more sophisticated.

About 15 years ago the trend was for a more overdone look that was heavily influenced by women in the public eye. There was a lip treatment called the ‘Paris Lip' that was very popular which resulted in huge, pouty lips. At 25 you can get away with it, but if you're 45 or 55 it just doesn't look natural.

In the last five years the trend has changed to looking very natural. Partly, this is due to a greater understanding about what contributes to the ageing face; it's not just about lines, but about the descent of the brow, loss of facial volume, even loss of skull density. At the same time, treatments have become more sophisticated - we can volumise, hydrate and even stimulate collagen at bone level. The way I approach treatment is to make patients look refreshed and rejuvenated but they still look like themselves... just better.

The new hydrating treatments are really interesting as they provide the icing on the cake. They are ideal for young people who don't need more involved treatments but do want to improve skin condition. They are also great for the middle-age period when skin is getting crêpey and the elasticity is depleting. By placing hydrating treatments all over the face, you aren't volumising or plumping but you are dramatically hydrating and improving the skin texture and tone. Skin tone is often a bigger giveaway of ageing than everything else; for example, Helen Mirren does have a few lines but she positively glows.

Celebrity culture does have a massive impact on what women on the street want, although celebrities are very careful about what they reveal. A plastic surgeon was quoted as saying that if a celebrity admits to a facial they are probably having Botox and if they admit to Botox they are likely to have had a facelift! Also, recently, a growing number of celebrities have gone on record saying they used to have cosmetic treatments but not anymore. I must confess, in some cases I don't necessarily believe this is so.

As a female doctor, I'm glad the very over-enhanced ‘Barbie' look has gone, as I think the understated look is much more appealing. For the most part, my patients want the natural look and I rarely see women who want to achieve a fake appearance.

I can't see this trend for the make-under going away anytime soon; I think over the next decade treatments and procedures will just become more advanced.

The main problem for the potential patient will be confusion about treatment. This is where practitioner choice becomes so important - they need to see a responsible, experienced professional who can guide them through this maze. An organisation like the BACD is a good place to start, but personal recommendation is often crucial.

My advice to patients is to do your research before seeing a practitioner and then during your consultation ask to see before and after photographs, ask how many treatments they've done, how many complications they've had and how they've dealt with them. Then you can make the right informed decision.