Cosmeceuticals: Know Your ABC

By: Ruth Donnelly
Created on 26th October 2010

By now you've probably got the message that there really is a difference between the creams you can buy in your local chemist and the pharmaceutical grade skincare sold through aesthetic clinics. But with so many ranges on the market, how do you know which is best for you? We've put together a comprehensive list of the top ingredients to look for, what they do and where to find them.

 A is for Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Known for their anti-ageing and smoothing properties, alpha hydroxy acids are commonly used to improve texture, treat fine wrinkling, roughness, and uneven pigmentation. They are often used in chemical peels, to strip away the dead layers of skin. There are many different types of AHA, some of which are listed below.

Get it in: NeoStrata Ultra Daytime Smoothing Cream, SPF 15 (www.wigmoremedical.com)

 

B is for Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide was one of the first scientifically proven treatments for acne, and is still one of the most popular active ingredients in products for oily and acne-prone skin. It works by introducing oxygen to the pores and killing off the acne-causing bacteria inside. It also helps to exfoliate the skin, cleaning the pore of cellular debris and lessening the chance of pore blockages.

Get it in: SkinMedica Acne Treatment Lotion (www.skinbrands.co.uk)

C is for Vitamin C

Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, works as an antioxidant and is one of the most effective topical agents against wrinkles, fines lines and photodamage caused by sun exposure. It is vital for producing collagen, correcting pigmentation problems and reducing free radicals.

Get it in: Image Skincare Vital C range (www.skingeeks.co.uk)

D is for Vitamin D

Vitamin D is essential for the formation of healthy, strong teeth, bones and nails, as well as enhancing the body's ability to absorb calcium, vitamins A and C and other essential nutrients. The best source of vitamin D is natural sunlight, but given the dangers of sun damage, oral supplements might be your best bet.

Get it in: Rationale Vitamin D3 and K1 Skin Supplement                    (www.wellbournecosmetic.com)

 

E is for Vitamin E

Vitamin E is an antioxidant with an impressive ability to protect the skin from UV damage. It also helps to prevent water loss in the skin and reduces the severity of sunburns. Vitamin E is effective at soothing as well as moisturising inflamed, flaky skin, and so is often used in eczema treatments.

Get it in: Synchroline Nutritime Plus Face Cream (www.skinmed.co.uk)

F is for Ferulic Acid

Another antioxidant, ferulic acid defends the skin against free radicals and UV damage, and helps to prevent vitamins and minerals from breaking down and becoming ineffective, so is often used in combination with vitamins C and E in skincare products, to ensure all the ingredients achieve maximum efficacy.

Get it in: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic (www.skinbrands.co.uk)

G is for Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is one of the best known AHAs and is commonly used in chemical skin peels. It works as an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells to reveal a firmer, more youthful complexion, and also helps to draw moisturisers to the newly exfoliated skin surface.

Get it in: Sesderma Aglycolic Cream (www.sesderma.co.uk)

H is for Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the human body and is central to regulating cell growth and renewal. It has been used in dermal fillers since the mid-nineties, and has more recently been introduced into topical skincare. One of the principle characteristics of HA is its ability to retain water, which contributes significantly to the skin maintaining a youthful appearance. 

Get it in: Restylane Skincare (www.restylane.co.uk)

I is for Idebenone

Idebenone is a respiratory chain antioxidant, closely related to CoEnzyme Q10, which can correct many signs of ageing. Idebenone also offers protection against harmful environmental free radical stress, with an Environmental Protection Factor of 95.

Get it in: Priori Idebenone Superceuticals (www.prioriskincare.com)

J is for Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil has antibacterial properties and works as a moisturiser and emollient, to protect the skin and keep it soft. It is used in many anti-ageing formulas and also in some acne treatments, as its structure so closely resembles the skin's own sebum that it can help to regulate sebum production and prevent skin from becoming oily.

Get it in: Janssen Cosmeceuticals Ceramide Balancer (www.hunalp.co.uk)

 

K is for Vitamin K

Vitamin K is effective to reduce the appearance of bruising, broken capillaries and redness, and is often used post-facial surgery or to treat flushing or irritation on the face. Recent research has also revealed that vitamin K shows potential in the fight against wrinkles. Watch this space!

Get it in: Ling Vitamin K Anti-Redness Calming Solution (www.beautyworkswest.co.uk)

L is for Lactic Acid

Another AHA, Lactic acid shares similar skin rejuvenation traits as glycolic acid and is good for diminishing fine lines and wrinkles, reducing the appearance of age spots, improving skin texture and stimulating collagen production.

Get it in: Cosmedix Define (www.medicobeauty.com)

M is for MDI Complex

MDI Complex is a marine enzyme that inhibits the destruction of collagen, resulting in stronger, healthier, younger looking skin. It is also used to lighten dark circles, reduce redness and reverse the signs of sun damage.

Get it in: Sesha Skin Therapy Advanced Antioxidant Cream (www.sesha-uk.com)

N is for Niacinamide

Niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3) is a naturally occurring compound which, when used in high enough doses in cosmetic products, can help to create a more even skin tone, with improved texture and an increased skin barrier function.

Get it in: Oskia Bedtime Beauty Boost (www.oskiaskincare.com)

O is for Olea Europaea Oil

Olea Europaea oil - or olive oil, as it is more commonly known - has antioxidant properties and is beneficial to promote skin elasticity and protect the skin from harmful environmental pollutants.

Get it in: Image Skincare Ormedics range (www.skingeeks.co.uk)

P is for Peptides

Peptides occur naturally in the body and are composed of amino acids. All peptides influence the cells of the body in some way, and the ones used in skincare are the ones that direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. Products containing peptides increase collagen production, thereby thickening the skin and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Get it in: Theraderm Peptide Eye Creme (www.lifestyleaesthetics.com)

 

Q is for Quercetin

Quercetin is a bioflavonoid, which provides the body with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection. Used in skincare, it increases collagen production, resulting in plumper, younger looking skin. Quercetin also helps to speed wound healing, so may be useful post-procedure.

Get it in: Dr Nirdosh Skin Rescue Dry Skin Anti-Ageing Face Cream (www.drnirdosh.com)

R is for Retinol

Retinol is a purified form of Vitamin A, which has a rejuvenating effect on tired, sun damaged skin. It works by both stimulating the fibroblasts that produce new collagen and inhibiting the enzymes that cause existing collagen to break down. The molecular structure of retinol is so small that it can penetrate the skin easily, meaning we know that topical application is effective.

Get it in: Agera Ultimate Retinol Rejuvenator (www.agerarx.co.uk)

S is for Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, which works as a topical exfoliant to reduce the signs of photo-ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage and hyperpigmentation. It can also be applied topically, to treat and prevent acne. Often used for in-clinic treatments, such as chemical peels, it can also be found in some cosmeceutical products.

Get it in: Sesha Skin Therapy Clarifying Face Wash (www.sesha-uk.com)

T is for Titanium Dioxide

Titanium dioxide is found in sun protection products. It functions as a full-spectrum sunscreen, which means that it protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays, preventing sun damage and accelerated ageing. It is also used to give opacity to face powder, eye shadow, and foundation.

Get it in: Mene & Moy Facial Sunblock SPF30 (www.magroup.co.uk)

U is for Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10)

More commonly known as CoEnzyme Q10, Ubiquinone occurs naturally in the body and is needed for the production of energy in the cells. It exhibits powerful antioxidant properties and is used as a potent free radical scavenger in skincare products.

Get it in: SkinMedica TNS Line Refine (www.skinbrands.co.uk)

V is for Vitis Vinifera

Vitis Vinifera, or grape seed oil, has mildly astringent qualities, which help to tighten and tone the skin. Along with its antioxidant effect, this makes it a powerful weapon in the war against lines and wrinkles. It is also non-comedogenic and as such is often used to add moisturising properties to products for acne-prone skin.

Get it in: Obagi Comfort Gel (www.healthxchange.com)

W is for Wheat Germ Extract

Containing high levels of anti-oxidants, wheat germ extract is often used to treat stretch marks and scars, as well as lines and wrinkles. It has a high protein and vitamin E content and has the ability to repair skin cells that have been damaged by the sun and other external factors.

Get it in: Zelens Intensive Triple Action Eye Cream (www.zelens.com)

X is for Xylitylglucoside

Xylitylglucoside is a natural sugar that has the ability to entrap free water molecules and stimulate the skin's natural production of hyaluronic acid, while increasing ceramide production and water content, thus ensuring that the skin is plump, smooth and hydrated.

Get it in: Synchroline Hydratime Cleansing Milk (www.skinmed.co.uk)

Y is for Yeast Extract

Yeast extract is an antioxidant and pH adjuster, which acts as an excellent humectant, to draw water into the skin. It also helps to enhance the rate of cell turnover and may also reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, by blocking melanin biosynthesis.

Get it in: Janssen Cosmeceuticals Purifying Tonic Lotion (www.hunalp.co.uk)

Z is for Zinc Oxide

Zinc Oxide is one of the key ingredients in sunscreen formulations. It is known for its superior sun protection capabilities and preventing skin damage. As well as sun protection, it is useful for wound healing, acts as an astringent and also helps with the treatment of acne.

Invisible Zinc Environmental Skin Protector SPF 30+ (www.beautyworkswest.com)